This New Watch Taps into Chanel's Design History ~ VENUS MAG

This New Watch Taps into Chanel's Design History

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This New Watch Taps into Chanel's Design History

Story by Accessories Direction by Miguel Enamorado, Jennifer JenkinsOctober 26, 2025 at 12:00 AM

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This New Watch Taps into Chanel's Design History LOUIS DEWYNTER

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When Coco Chanel opened her first boutique in the seaside resort town of Deauville, France, in 1913, she disrupted the status quo by presenting wardrobes built around relaxed trousers, collarless suits, and boatneck tops that embodied a kind of modern ease. It's an aspect of her legacy that features prominently in the house's latest timepiece, the Première Galon watch.

First introduced in 1987, the original Première arrived with an octagonal case modeled after the stopper on the iconic Chanel No. 5 perfume bottle. The watch's jet-black dial and beveled glass subtly echoed the geometric precision of Art Deco jewelry, with delicate gold hands and a chain-link bracelet interlaced with ribbons of leather inspired by the straps on Chanel's 2.55 bag. Its slim face was also a marked departure from the exuberant aesthetic that dominated so much of fashion in the 1980s.

The new Première Galon taps into that heritage with a host of 21st-century twists. Available in solid gold, semi-pavé, and fully pavé iterations, it features a bold reinterpretation of Chanel's signature braid motif—galon is French for "braid"—in the form of a winding, sculptural 18-karat gold cuff that hugs the wrist with the supple precision of fine jewelry, encircling the watch's delicate 15.2-millimeter case.

The Première Galon arrives at a moment of renewed emphasis on craft-centric design and a growing appetite for timepieces that feel like jewelry. Watch collectors, vintage dealers, and estate curators all report heightened interest in 20th-century modernist designs, from discreet "secret" watches to those embellished with precious stones.

Chanel creative director Matthieu Blazy's debut collection underscored that same devotion to craftsmanship, with intricate floral appliqués, impeccable shirting created in collaboration with Charvet, and tweed suits with low-slung waists and slits, trimmed with the house's signature braid— a design flourish that originally appeared on Chanel's tweed suits in the 1950s as a way to keep the loose weaves from fraying.

Because of its slender width and sleek design, the Première Galon can be worn solo or stacked with bracelets. At an intimate gathering to celebrate the watch's release this week, celebrity guests such as Sarah Pidgeon and Tessa Thompson paired it seamlessly with wardrobe staples like a white poplin shirt and a little black dress. It's a watch that instantly elevates even the simplest of looks and is classic enough to anchor more dressy ones.

Just as Chanel's suiting, handbags, and capped-toe pumps have all become enduring symbols of elegance, the Première Galon is the kind of investment piece that always feels of the moment—and one you'll want to wear for years to come.

Première Galon Semi Pavé Watch